Transform your countertops into the look of luxurious, high-end marble with Stone Coat Countertops APEX Polyaspartic. This step-by-step guide shows you how to create a bold, smoky, high-contrast White Exotic marble-inspired countertop using the dirty pour technique with the APEX system and premium pigments. 

Designed for both new builds and countertop transformations, the dirty pour technique creates dramatic movement while preserving the bright, clean white space that gives the finished surface its refined, statement-making look. The key is restraint: too much dark color, over-blending, or repeated passes can quickly turn soft smoky veining into a muddy gray surface. Follow the guide and video below to create controlled movement, lasting depth, and a durable professional-grade finish with elegant contrast.

How to Create White Exotic Marble Countertops with Stone Coat APEX Polyaspartic

NOTE: This White Exotic Marble recipe uses Stone Coat APEX, our next-generation polyaspartic countertop coating system. APEX is not epoxy and should not be mixed, primed, torched, or top-coated using legacy epoxy instructions or products. If you previously used our White Exotic Marble Epoxy Kit, this updated APEX method is the current recommended system for bright white Carrara-style countertops.

Before you start:

Whether you’re pouring APEX over an existing countertop—like tile or laminate—or fabricating a new surface from MDF, each approach has unique preparation steps to ensure maximum adhesion. For detailed instructions, check out our specific tutorials. This recipe begins with your surface fully prepped and ready for a stunning countertop transformation. 

Proper prep is especially important for bright white and light-colored designs. Before applying APEX Poly Fuse Countertop Primer, make sure the surface is clean, dry, smooth, and free from dust, grease, trapped moisture, damp filler, loose paint, silicone, slick finishes, or under-cured layers. Taking the time to prepare the surface correctly helps create a clean foundation for the bright, controlled finish this technique is designed to achieve.

Step 1:  Clean and Prep Surface

Remove all grease and grime from your surface using TSP or a heavy-duty degreaser, then sand with 80-120 grit sandpaper for strong adhesion. Sand and smooth any bumps or rough areas, then clean the surface thoroughly to remove all dust and debris. If you are going over a surface with damage, seams, gaps, or uneven areas, fill those first with Bondo or an approved filler to create a smooth, uniform surface. Allow the filler to dry fully, then sand it smooth and clean thoroughly before priming. APEX Poly Fuse Countertop Primer should be used as the first step in the APEX countertop system.

Apply thin coats of Poly Fuse Countertop Primer to the countertop surface, edges, and backsplash. Allow the first coat to dry for 45 minutes to 1 hour before applying the second coat. After the second coat, allow the primer to fully dry and off-gas before applying APEX Polyaspartic Countertop Coating. For laminate, allow APEX Poly Fuse Primer to dry a minimum of 6 hours and up to 24 hours before applying APEX Polyaspartic.

Recommended dry times after the second coat of Poly Fuse are 6 to 8+ hours over non-porous surfaces such as laminate, granite, solid surface, and similar materials, and 5 to 6+ hours over porous surfaces such as plywood, MDF, and similar materials. The primer can also be allowed to dry overnight or up to 24 hours before pouring APEX. If the primer sits overnight, lightly sand the primed surface before pouring APEX Polyaspartic, then clean thoroughly to remove all dust and debris before pouring.

APEX Poly Fuse Countertop Primer is formulated to create a strong bond between the properly prepared substrate and the APEX coating system. Do not use Epoxy Undercoat or any other primers beneath APEX.

Common mistakes to avoid include coating over dust, trapped moisture, loose paint, slick surfaces, silicone, grease, or under-cured layers. Do not rush the primer’s dry time. Once the primer is fully dry, lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper if needed, then remove all remaining dust before continuing with APEX.

Create a Tape Dam:

• Create a tape dam around the countertop edges using painter’s tape. Start with one row of tape placed about midway up the edge, allowing the tape to extend approximately 1/2 inch above the countertop surface. This creates the dam that will help hold the APEX material in place during the pour.
• To make sure the tape is secure, apply a second row of painter’s tape from midway down the edge toward the bottom edge. Take your time pressing the tape firmly along the entire edge, then roll the bottom edge of the tape underneath the countertop for a tight seal.
• A tape dam is recommended for pours that require more than 7 ounces of APEX per square foot. Because an APEX dirty pour typically uses 8 to 10 ounces per square foot, the tape dam helps hold the material in place until it reaches the proper stage to flow cleanly over the edges.

Step 2:  Pour Countertop Coating (Dirty Pour Method)

Prepare the APEX Countertop Coating: 

• Ensure the APEX Poly Fuse is Dry: Before you begin, make sure the primer on your countertop is completely dry (see above). This is crucial for proper adhesion and a smooth finish. 
• Stage Everything: Before mixing, stage products, cups, sticks, gloves, timer, spreaders (if applicable), colorants, dyes, powders, tape, popsicle sticks, and APEX Surface Control Finishing Spray.
• Mix the APEX Polyaspartic: Calculate the amount of APEX Countertop Coating you'll need for the dirty pour technique. Plan 8–10 ounces of total mixed APEX per square foot. Do not apply less than 8 oz. Measure 2 parts A to 1 part B by volume in a clean graduated container, keeping the batch maximum of 1.5 gallons in mind.

Example from this project:

• 6 ft x 2 ft = 12 sq ft
• 12 sq ft x 8 oz = 96 oz total mixed APEX
• 12 sq ft x 10 oz = 120 oz total mixed APEX

* This estimate does not include additional material needed for edges, backsplashes, waste, or other project-specific requirements.

• Mix Thoroughly: Mix for 2 minutes total and scrape sides/bottom halfway. Do not exceed 1.5 gallons total mixed APEX per bucket/batch. For batches 2.5 quarts or lower, mix by hand with a flat-bottom paint stick. For larger batches, use a paddle mixer on a drill at low to medium speed. Try to incorporate as little air into the material while mixing as possible. Proper mixing is essential for the coating to cure correctly. 

Separate for Tinting: 

• Divide the Mixture: Split the mixed APEX Polyaspartic into recipe cups promptly.

Proper Color Ratio for White Exotic Marble: 

• 96% White Base Colors (24% each Opaque and Translucent Poly White Countertop Dye; 24% White Metallic Pigment Powder; 24% Diamond Dust Metallic Pigment Powder) – 4% Accent Colors (2% Black Dye; 2% Silver Metallic Pigment Powder)
• Use Minimal Darker Colors: For this dirty pour finish, only a small amount of Silver Metallic Powder & Black Resin Dye is needed; a little goes a long way. 

Example Mixture for 192 Ounces (1.5 gallons) of APEX: 

• White Dye Mixture – Opaque: 46 ounces 
• White Dye Mixture – Translucent: 46 ounces
• White Metallic Mixture: 46 ounces 
• Diamond Dust Metallic Mixture: 46 ounces
• Black Dye Mixture: 4 ounces 
• Silver Metallic Mixture: 4 ounces 
• Adjust the ratio as desired for your specific finish 

Create Black and White Dye Colors: 

• Use Black Dye sparingly, as dark colors can quickly overpower a bright white design.
• Use the APEX Poly White Dye to create large buckets of white base at about 50% opaque white / 50% translucent white.
• Using APEX Poly White Dye: For a solid, opaque color—especially with lighter shades like white—add 10–15 drops of Stone Coat Countertops Poly White Dye per 16 ounces of APEX Polyaspartic.
• Mix carefully.
• Important: Avoid Excessive Dye: Adding too much dye can prevent the material from hardening properly and may result in a sticky or soft surface. 
• Understanding Dyes vs. Pigments: Dyes provide uniform color without shimmer, while pigments offer metallic effects. Combining them can create unique finishes.

Add Metallic Pigment Powder: 

• Measure the Pigment: Add 2–3 tablespoons of PolyColor Metallic Pigment Powder per 16 ounces of APEX Polyaspartic. Adjust the amount based on the color intensity you desire. 
• Incorporate the Pigment: Stir the pigment into the material until it's fully dispersed. Scrape the sides and bottom of the container to prevent unmixed particles, which can affect the appearance and curing. 
• Understanding Pigments: Metallic pigments add depth and a shimmering effect, creating a dynamic look that changes with lighting and viewing angle. .

Test the Mixture: 

• Use the Mixing Stick Test: After mixing, lift the stir stick out of the material and hold it horizontally. As the material levels out to about 1/8", you'll see how the color and additives will appear when applied. If you can see the stick, do not pour yet.
• Evaluate Opacity and Effect: This test helps you assess whether the material has reached your desired opacity and effect. It's easier to adjust the mixture now than after it's poured. 
• Adjust if Necessary: If any of the colors are too light or not vibrant enough, add small increments of pigment or dye and mix thoroughly before testing again. 

Build the White Exotic Dirty Pour Bucket:

• Pour the tinted colors into a larger bucket in a random layered pattern. Do not stir the colors together. Over-blending will remove the contrast and movement before the material ever reaches the countertop.
• For White Exotic, white is the foundation. The smoky tones are there to create depth and movement, not to overpower the surface. Keep the darker colors controlled so the finished design stays bright, clean, and balanced.

Pour Controlled Ribbons: 

• Pour the White Exotic dirty pour bucket in even ribbons across the countertop. Avoid pouring one large puddle in the center, as this can create heavy color concentration and make the pattern harder to control.
• Allow the ribbons to connect and level naturally, then spread the material only as needed to achieve full surface coverage. Protect the bright white areas as you work. The white space creates the clean, elevated look that defines this design.
• Avoid overworking the surface. Too much dark color, excessive blending, or repeated passes can quickly turn the smoky movement into a muddy gray finish. Stop while the design still feels bright, balanced, and intentional. 

Using APEX Surface Control Finishing Spray, NO TORCH

•  Once colors are applied, the surface is covered, and you’re happy with the look and design of the project, continue to lightly mist APEX Surface Control Finishing Spray while the surface is still wet/workable.
• The final light spray target should be 30 minutes from the initial mix. When the finishing spray just sits on top of the surface without popping microbubbles, time is up.
• You can’t hurt the surface by applying too late. The spray will just cease to work.
• The more you meld the material, the more finishing spray will be needed.

Remove Tape Dam and Cover Edges

• For a dirty pour with a tape dam, plan to pull the tape approximately 30–45 minutes after the initial mix. 
• Do not rely on the clock alone. Watch the material closely. It should be thick enough to hold the edge shape while still fluid enough to flow cleanly over the side.
• After removing the tape, use a gloved finger to guide material into any dry areas along the edge. Avoid overworking the design. The goal is simply to help the edge finish smoothly and evenly.

Scrape Drips and Let APEX Cure Before Sanding or Applying an Optional Top Coat

• Once the material reaches the gel stage, usually about 90–120 minutes after the initial mix, depending on room conditions and pour thickness, scrape any drips from the underside. 
• Allow APEX to cure 20–24 hours before sanding.
• APEX can be left without an additional top coat if you are satisfied with the cured surface and all microbubbles were removed during the pour using APEX Surface Control Finishing Spray. 
• To leave APEX as the final finish, sand the cured surface up to 800 to 1000 grit to create an elegant, honed surface. 
• For the most durable, long-lasting finish, you have the option to apply Ultimate Top Coat in either Textured Matte or Textured Gloss. 

STEP 3 (OPTIONAL): APPLY STONE COAT ULTIMATE TOP COAT

If using Ultimate Top Coat, sand the surface and edges before the top coat.

o   220 grit before Textured Matte UTC

o   320 grit before Textured Gloss UTC

• Apply Ultimate Top Coat according to Stone Coat instructions if you want a more durable, protective finish for high-use surfaces.
• Start with 120 grit if microbubbles need to be removed before applying the UTC. 
• APEX looks very elegant as a honed surface and performs great in a bathroom or kitchen, sanded up to 800-1000 grit. 
• Use 7 days as the full cure baseline and follow Stone Coat care guidance.

For highly-detailed written instructions, see our Ultimate Top Coat Instructions HERE.

Enjoy your new countertops!   

From all of us here at Stone Coat Countertops,   

YOU GOT THIS!