Stone Coat Countertops

What is APEX?

APEX is a next-generation countertop coating system from Stone Coat Countertops, engineered for bright, high-end stone and marble looks with better color confidence, clarity, durability, and long-term performance.

Unlike epoxy, APEX is made with aliphatic polyaspartic technology designed to be poured thick, mimic the depth and movement of natural stone, and resist yellowing, even in direct sunlight. The system was built specifically for true whites and light-colored countertop designs, giving customers more control and confidence when creating bright surfaces.

APEX is not just another coating. It is a complete Stone Coat system built around better white countertops, no-torch surface control, professional-looking results, and the training customers need before they pour.

Is APEX Epoxy?

No. APEX is not epoxy. It is a complete countertop system that includes a primer, white dye, countertop coating, and finishing spray, with each component engineered to work together for exceptional beauty, durability, and long-term color stability.

APEX also has its own workflow. It moves less than epoxy, gels quicker, uses no-torch bubble control, and requires disciplined timing during application. It is built to give customers more control, greater color confidence, and a finished countertop that stays bright over time.

Does APEX Yellow?

For years, yellowing has been one of the biggest limitations of epoxy countertop coatings. APEX was engineered to move beyond it and redefine what’s possible.

APEX Polyaspartic Countertop Coating is an industry-leading UV-stable formula specifically designed to preserve true whites and resist the discoloration traditionally associated with epoxy countertop coatings.

Is APEX Replacing Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy?

No. APEX expands the Stone Coat portfolio of countertop solutions rather than replacing existing products. Our Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy kits remain an excellent choice for artistic stone looks, dramatic veining, metallic effects, and a wide range of custom countertop designs. APEX was specifically engineered for projects where preserving brilliant whites and light-colored aesthetics is the priority.

Is it possible to apply APEX over existing countertops?

Yes. APEX can be installed over existing countertops, including existing epoxy countertops, as long as the surface is solid, stable, and properly prepared.

APEX Poly Fuse Countertop Primer is engineered to bond to a variety of surfaces, including laminate, tile, cultured marble, granite, metal, MDF, existing epoxy, and new builds. Each surface may require a different prep path, so follow the approved prep system for the specific countertop you are coating.

Do not apply APEX over failing substrates, loose material, peeling coatings, or surfaces that are not structurally sound. Solid and properly prepared is the rule.

How long will my countertop stay white?

APEX was engineered specifically to preserve true whites and light-colored countertop designs over the long term. Our UV chamber testing indicates 20+ years of color stability. An APEX coating is designed to outlast the lifespan of a typical kitchen and offers long-term durability beyond many traditional natural stone options, including marble.

Can I torch APEX?

No. APEX is a no-torch workflow, which makes the process more user-friendly and eliminates the need for an additional tool.

Epoxy often uses a torch to help release bubbles and manipulate the surface, but APEX is designed to work differently. Do not use a torch on APEX. Torching APEX will lower the working time and affect the cured finish. Instead, use APEX Surface Control Finishing Spray during the approved wet working window.

What is APEX Surface Control Finishing Spray?

APEX Surface Control Finishing Spray is used for bubble release and surface control during the APEX application process. It is not a top coat.

The finishing spray helps release surface bubbles and supports a smoother finish without torching while the material is still wet, open, and workable. Because APEX moves less and gels quicker than standard epoxy, timing matters. Use APEX Surface Control Finishing Spray only during the approved wet working window of 30–45 min and follow the approved process closely.

For optional long-term wear protection, follow the Ultimate Top Coat guidance.

Why do the directions say, "mix 2 minutes and scrape"?

The 2-minute mix and scrape step helps ensure APEX is fully blended before it reaches the countertop.

Mix for 2 minutes total, scraping the sides and bottom of the container halfway through. This pulls any unmixed material back into the blend and helps prevent soft spots, cure issues, or streaks caused by unmixed product landing on the project.

Do not skip the scrape step. Proper mixing is critical for a full cure and consistent finish.

How much APEX do I need?

How much APEX you need depends on your square footage and the style of pour you are creating.

As a general guideline, plan for about 6 oz per square foot for controlled hand-meld designs and Carrara-style looks. For Dirty Pour designs, flowing stone styles, or projects that need more movement and material, plan for 8–10 oz per square foot.

Measure your countertop area carefully, account for edges and extra working material, and do not stretch the product too thin. Using enough material is important for proper flow, coverage, and finished results.

What is the stick test?

The stick test helps you check white opacity before you pour.

After mixing your APEX, dip a clean stir stick into the material and let APEX cover the stick at about 1/8 inch thick. If you can still see the stick through the coating, add more opacity before pouring.

This step is especially important for bright white and light countertop designs, where coverage and color confidence matter most.

Do I need Ultimate Top Coat?

For maximum protection on high-use surfaces, we recommend using Stone Coat Ultimate Top Coat in Textured Matte or Gloss, but it is not required.

Ultimate Top Coat is recommended as part of the standardized Stone Coat wear system because it provides the final protective layer and helps create a uniform sheen across the countertop. This is especially important for surfaces that will see regular daily use.

Ultimate Top Coat is not the same as APEX Surface Control Finishing Spray. Surface Control Spray is used during the wet working window for bubble release and surface control. Ultimate Top Coat is an optional top coat finish that provides an additional layer of protection.

Can APEX be used by DIY homeowners and beginners?

Yes. APEX can be used by DIY homeowners, beginners, professionals, and creators alike. However, taking the time to learn the system before starting your project is essential for achieving the best results.

APEX was designed to simplify the countertop coating process while still delivering premium beauty, durability, and long-term performance. It’s DIY-friendly, but for the best results, take time to watch the tutorials, properly prepare the surface, measure everything carefully, use the correct amount of material, and follow the recommended timing throughout the pour.

Can APEX be used outside?

Yes. APEX can be used in outdoor applications when it is installed over appropriate exterior-grade substrates and construction materials.

The surface underneath matters. Outdoor projects must be solid, stable, properly prepared, and built with materials designed to handle exterior conditions, including moisture, temperature changes, and normal expansion and contraction. Do not apply APEX over failing substrates, untreated indoor-only materials, or surfaces that are not structurally sound.

For outdoor projects, always follow the label’s temperature and humidity guidelines during application. Outdoor pours can be challenging due to changing weather, so whenever possible, pour indoors in a controlled environment, let it cure, and then move it outside.

How do I care for and maintain APEX?

Keep your APEX countertop looking its best with simple daily care. Clean the surface with a soft cloth and a mild, non-abrasive cleaner, and wipe up spills as they happen.

Avoid abrasive pads, harsh solvents, direct cutting, dragging heavy items, or placing hot cookware directly on the surface. Use cutting boards, trivets, and common-sense protection just like you would with any premium countertop finish.

Treat the surface gently during the 7-day full cure period. For the most durable wear, apply an optional layer of Ultimate Top Coat in Textured Matte or Gloss.

How durable and heat-resistant is APEX?

APEX is heat-resistant, but it is not heat-proof. Do not place hot pans, appliances, or heat-generating items directly on the surface for prolonged periods. Use trivets, hot pads, or protective barriers, just as you would with other finished countertop surfaces. For temporary contact, it can withstand up to 450°F.

Is APEX only for white countertops?

While APEX was engineered specifically around the performance demands of white and light-colored countertops, the system can also be used to create a variety of refined stone-inspired designs. Its primary advantage is its ability to preserve bright, white stone aesthetics over time.

Can APEX be used in kitchens with large windows or natural sunlight?

Yes. APEX was engineered with industry-leading UV stability, addressing one of the most common concerns with white epoxy countertops: discoloration from natural light exposure. It is designed to preserve a true white appearance and maintain long-term clarity, even in bright, sunlit spaces.

Can I combine other Stone Coat products with APEX?

No. APEX must be used as the complete APEX Countertop System. Each component was engineered to work together as a unified system to deliver proper adhesion, clarity, durability, and long-term color stability. APEX should NOT be mixed, substituted, or combined with other Stone Coat Countertops coating products.

If the complete APEX system is not used as directed, the project is no longer protected by the performance benefits built into the system. Mixing incompatible coating products or chemistries can lead to issues such as yellowing, blistering, cure problems, or other finish failures.

The only exception is Stone Coat Ultimate Top Coat in Textured Matte or Gloss, which can be applied over the cured APEX system as an optional final protective top coat.

How long does APEX take to cure?

APEX is a fast-curing system designed to reach full cure in approximately seven days.

Light use can typically begin in 36 to 48 hours, including careful sink and fixture installation when handled properly. During the cure period, do not place anything heavy on the countertop, drag items across the surface, or install appliances.

Appliances, heavy items, and anything with concentrated weight should wait until the full 7-day cure is complete. This helps protect the finish during its early cure window while still reducing overall project downtime.

What is the shelf life of APEX Polyaspartic Countertop Coating?

APEX Polyaspartic Countertop Coating has a shelf life of 18 months when stored unopened in its original, sealed container. For best results, store the product in a cool, dry, dark environment away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures. Ideal storage temperatures are 60°F–80°F (16°C–27°C).

Once opened, APEX should be considered a short-window product and used as soon as possible. Even when containers are tightly resealed, exposure to humidity can begin to affect the material and may lead to crystallization or reduced performance. Depending on storage conditions and humidity levels, opened product may remain usable for approximately 1–2 weeks, although our recommendation is to use it within a few days whenever possible.

Before using previously opened material on a project, always perform a small test mix and application to verify freshness and proper curing. If the product appears thickened, crystallized, discolored, or does not mix and cure normally, discontinue use and replace with fresh material to ensure the best possible finish and performance.

How long did it take to develop APEX?

APEX is the result of years of research, testing, engineering, and real-world application development. The system went through more than 75 iterative refinements as Stone Coat worked to establish a new performance benchmark for white countertop coatings.

Where can I learn more about why epoxy yellows?

Epoxy yellowing has been one of the most-discussed topics in countertop refinishing because it directly impacts white and light-colored designs. To learn more about the science behind yellowing, what causes it, and how modern coating technologies are addressing the issue, read our complete guide: Why Does Epoxy Yellow?

Do I need to be a professional to use Stone Coat countertop epoxy products?

Absolutely not! Our meticulously crafted products are tailor-made for homeowners aiming to save on kitchen and bathroom upgrades. With our revolutionary epoxy solutions, you can effortlessly transform your outdated countertops or build stunning new ones from scratch.

We provide step-by-step guidance on our Stone Coat Countertops YouTube channel, empowering you every step of the way. YOU GOT THIS!

How much countertop epoxy do I need?

First, you must determine the square footage of your countertops. We've got a simple formula for you: just multiply the length (in inches) by the width (in inches), then divide the result by 144. This calculation will provide you with the accurate square footage of your project.

Length (in inches) × Width (in inches) ÷ 144 = Square Footage of Countertop

The amount of epoxy needed depends on your desired technique. In most cases, 3 ounces of mixed epoxy per square foot will do the trick. However, if you're going for a more intricate Exotic Pour or Hand Melded Marble technique, we recommend using 5-6 ounces per square foot. And if you're applying a clear coat of epoxy as the final step, 3 ounces per square foot should be sufficient.

Is it possible to apply Stone Coat epoxy over existing countertops?

Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy and Epoxy Art Coat are specially designed to revitalize a variety of surfaces, including Porcelain and Ceramic Tile, Laminate (Formica), Granite, Marble, Quartz, Cultured Marble, and Solid Surface like Corian. Our epoxy formulations deliver exceptional results when you properly abrade your countertops and apply our Bonding Primer & Sealer to ensure a strong bond with existing countertop surfaces.

What do I use to prep and clean for my project?

For best results, DO NOT use acetone to clean or prep your surface.

We recommend using 91% isopropyl alcohol for:

Surface preparation before pouring
Cleaning between poured layers
Creating cell textures and effects

Using acetone may interfere with adhesion and final finish quality. Stick with 91% isopropyl alcohol for a clean, professional result.

How do I measure and mix Stone Coat Epoxy?

For best results, measure our Countertop Epoxy and Epoxy Art Coat at a 1:1 ratio by volume. Use a graduated bucket that measures by fluid ounces for accurate mixing.
Start by pouring an equal amount of Resin (Part A) and Hardener (Part B) into the bucket, adding Part B first, followed by Part A.
Mix both components thoroughly using a paint paddle mixer attached to a drill for about 2 minutes. Remember to pause halfway through the mixing process to scrape the sides and bottom of the bucket. If you prefer to mix by hand using a flat bottom paint stick, simply double the mixing time to approximately 4 minutes.
For the longest working time, move quickly to apply the mixed epoxy to the countertop.

How much countertop epoxy can I mix at once?

For optimal results and safety, we recommend mixing only 1 gallon of our countertop epoxy products at a time. This translates to a ½ gallon mix of Part A (resin) and ½ gallon of Part B (hardener). Mixing larger quantities can lead to an exothermic reaction, causing:

Excessive Heat: This can damage the epoxy and surrounding surfaces.
Rapid Curing: The epoxy will harden too quickly, limiting your working time.
Toxic VOC Release: These fumes can pose health risks.

What colors can I make my epoxy countertops?

Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy and Epoxy Art Coat are designed to work seamlessly with Metallic Mica Pigment Powder, Glitter Additives, and Liquid Epoxy Dye, giving you the freedom to create your dream countertops. With the ability to incorporate a spectrum of solids, metallics, glitters, and rich epoxy pastes–the possibilities are endless! We encourage you to unleash your creativity and explore different combinations of our colorants to achieve one-of-a-kind patterns and designs.

How long do I have to work with the epoxy before it begins to cure?

Both Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy and Art Coat Epoxy both offer an impressively long working time of roughly 50 minutes in a working environment of 70 degrees Fahrenheit and 60 percent relative humidity. While higher temperatures and humidity may slightly reduce the working time, we have ensured that even first-time epoxy users can confidently work with our products. After mixing you have roughly 50 minutes of working time to pour your color coat, wait 18-24 hours to then pour your final clear coat of Countertop Epoxy or Epoxy Art Coat or Ultimate Top Coat for added durability and scratch resistance.

What should the room temperature be when I pour and cure my countertops?

For the best results when using Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy and Art Coat Epoxy, it's recommended to create in an environment with a temperature between 68 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit and a relative humidity of 55 to 65 percent. During the initial three days, it's crucial to ensure that the epoxy project cures in a room above 65 degrees to prevent a softer cure.

It's important to note that higher temperature and humidity regions like Hawaii, Florida, and the southeastern United States may experience slightly shorter working and gel times for the epoxy. For example, in Southern Oregon, we recommend removing the tape dam around 1.75 to 2 hours after mixing, while in Texas, we remove it around 1 to 1.25 hours after mixing. Regardless of the location, both regions offer roughly 50 minutes of working time with the material.

How do I remove air bubbles from mixed epoxy?

Below are three effective methods to eliminate bubbles when mixing and applying epoxy:

Method #1 (preferred): Use a propane torch to sweep the surface of the project, holding the torch head 1-3 inches away. Opt for a torch head with holes at the base, ensuring it stays lit even when flipped upside down. Our recommendation is the Bernzomatic TS-4000.

Method #2: The next best option is a heat gun. Follow the same process, but hold the heat gun a bit further away to prevent the blowing air from affecting the finish, unless you prefer the altered results.

Method #3: In third place, we have the hair dryer. Although it is the least efficient and effective, it can still take care of those micro bubbles. Simply sweep the surface in the same manner, but go slower on a low setting.

Do I have to apply a masking tape dam to the edges of my countertop before I pour epoxy?

We only use a tape dam when we're working with more than 3 ounces of epoxy per square foot of countertop. For finishes like our Rolling Stone method, we recommend using 5-8 ounces of epoxy. This extra epoxy helps allow for those beautiful melding and marbling effects to smoothly flow over the edges.

Apply a masking tape dam to keep everything in place until the epoxy starts to thicken and gel up. After 1.25-2 hours after mixing, pouring, and working with your epoxy you can check if it's ready by gently touching and lifting a gloved finger from the corner of the project. Check how long the epoxy sticks to your finger as well as its consistency. Ideally, you want it to stick to your finger as you lift it by an inch or so. This will allow your countertop edges to retain a defined pattern as the epoxy flows over. If you notice any dry areas on the edges, just wet them with epoxy using your gloved finger as the epoxy flows. This will help ensure smooth and even coverage.

There is no need for a tape dam on a countertop finish requiring only 3 ounces or epoxy per square foot such as Soapstone, Baltic Brown Granite, Carrara Marble, the application of an epoxy clear coat using Countertop Epoxy or Art Coat, and many more.

Check out the vast library of tutorials on our Stone Coat Countertops YouTube channel to find out how many ounces of epoxy per square foot we mix to achieve a wide variety of creative finishes.

Can I apply epoxy to an existing vertical backsplash?

Yes! However, it can be difficult to pour the same look on both a horizontal and vertical surface. So, we've come up with the following solution.

The easiest and best looking method would be to first remove the backsplash by cutting it off the countertop and filling the small gap at the wall and back of the countertop with Bondo. Then, cut a new backsplash out of MDF and pour your epoxy onto it flat at the same time you pour your countertops. When cured, install your new backsplash vertically with 100% silicone.

I’m making white epoxy countertops, what is the best Stone Coat epoxy product to use?

For white and light-colored epoxy countertops, shower walls, and tabletops, we recommend using Epoxy Art Coat. It offers the highest level of UltraViolet resistance in the industry. By incorporating as many UV resistant and Hindered Amine Light Stabilizers (HALS) additives as possible, we ensure that your white and light-colored epoxy countertops will maintain their color fastness for years to come, as long as you follow our best practices during the creation process.

Is it necessary to apply a clear coat of epoxy prior to using Ultimate Top Coat?

No, but adding a clear coat has some benefits. Adding a clear epoxy layer not only enhances the depth and durability of your epoxy countertop design but also provides extra protection to the thinnest part of your project–the edges. If you prefer not to use Ultimate Top Coat as the final layer for maximum durability, just make sure to apply 1-3 ounces of Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy or Epoxy Art Coat per square foot of countertop to restore a "safe for food contact" status. Always make sure to cover your initial colored epoxy layer with either a clear coat of Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy, Epoxy Art Coat, or Ultimate Top Coat.

How do I achieve a glass smooth, perfectly cured epoxy countertop finish?

Achieving this is simple using Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy or Epoxy Art Coat. Our epoxy products are “self-leveling” allowing them to lay perfectly flat and glass smooth. As a best practice upon completion of your epoxy pour, we suggest turning all lights and any sources of air movement off as the countertops cure. If a heat source is needed, place the space heater on the floor, aiming the air movement away from the countertops. Air movement can cause rippling to occur in an actively curing countertop.

When can I install my new countertops and sink after pouring epoxy countertops?

This all depends if you’re applying another layer of Ultimate Top Coat as a final layer or opting for only a clear coat of Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy or Epoxy Art Coat. All epoxy should cure a minimum of 4-5 days before installing the countertops and sink. Refrain from sliding items across the surface initially. Applying an optional layer of Ultimate Top Coat as a final step brings durability to a maximum, quickly. We apply Ultimate Top Coat 24 hours after the final clear coat of epoxy. After applying the Ultimate Top Coat, wait 36-48 hours before installing the countertops. This allows for proper curing. The kitchen sink can then be installed on the same day as the countertops.

Does Stone Coat countertop epoxy have a strong odor?

Enjoy a healthier installation with our low-odor, low-VOC countertop epoxy products. No respirator required during application, making it more comfortable for you to work.

We do however highly recommend wearing vinyl nitrile gloves and eye protection during the application process, and adding a respirator mask when sanding our products.

How durable and heat resistant is a cured epoxy countertop?

Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy and Epoxy Art Coat are specifically formulated for kitchen and bathroom spaces, making these epoxies able to stand up to everyday wear and tear in your home. They can even handle a hot pot or pan with heat resistance up to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Once fully cured at 30 days, our epoxy countertops can withstand chipping, blistering, peeling, heavy scratching, and offer great UV resistance under normal use.

Can I place a hot pot or pan directly on a cured epoxy countertop?

While it is possible to place hot items directly on the epoxy countertop, it is not a recommended practice. Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy, Epoxy Art Coat and Ultimate Top Coat are designed to withstand temperatures of up to 450 degrees Fahrenheit without sustaining any permanent damage. However, for optimal protection and longevity of your countertop, we advise using a trivet or hot pad when placing hot pans, pots, cast iron, or cookie sheets on your work surface.

When exposed to heat, the epoxy may soften temporarily and then return to its normal hardness once cooled. For added precaution, we suggest using a wood or plastic cutting board with feet as a protective barrier when placing a crock pot on the countertop for extended periods of cooking.

How do I care for and maintain my new Stone Coat epoxy countertops?

Caring for and maintaining your countertops is a breeze! For tough stains, reach for a microfiber rag or a blue Scotch-Brite sponge. Stay away from harsh cleaners and chemicals that can harm the epoxy surface. Instead, go for a gentle dish soap or an all-purpose cleaner made for laminate or solid surface countertops, diluted with water.

For everyday cleaning, simply wipe down the surface with a damp cloth and dry it with a clean towel. Avoid using abrasive scrubbers or pads that could scratch the surface and dull its shine. To add a delightful scent and a smooth, sleek feel, try our Epoxy Polishing & Cleaning Kit. This product not only leaves your countertop smelling fantastic but also provides an incredibly smooth finish.

When it comes to long-term maintenance, we recommend applying a fresh coat of Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy, Epoxy Art Coat or another layer of Ultimate Top Coat every 6-8 years to keep your countertops looking brand new. Additionally, it's crucial to protect the surface from hot objects to prevent damage. Always use trivets or cutting boards as a barrier when dealing with heat.

PRO TIP: Wine, mustard, turmeric, and powdered drink mixes have the potential to create stubborn stains on your Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy, Epoxy Art Coat or Ultimate Top Coat. It is important to promptly clean up and avoid letting these products sit and dry on the countertop. To effectively remove stubborn messes, saturate the affected area with 91% isopropyl alcohol and gently wipe it off using a microfiber towel.

Can you apply Stone Coat flooring epoxy on concrete and wood plywood subfloors?

Stone Coat Flooring Epoxy Midcoat is a versatile and durable solution offering exceptional adhesion to various surfaces, enabling the creation of seamless and long-lasting finishes on both concrete and wood plywood subfloors. Revamp your garage or add a unique touch to your wooden studio with our high-quality flooring epoxy.

For concrete surfaces: we highly recommend applying a base layer of our revolutionary Moisture Seal Epoxy Primer, which acts as a moisture barrier for long-term durability, prior to pouring our Epoxy Midcoat. And, for a flawless, seamless floor, fill cracks and expansion joints with our Floor Patch Epoxy Gel. This high-performance gel boasts superior elongation and compression properties, ensuring it flexes with the natural movements of your floor while maintaining a strong bond, preventing future cracking.

For plywood subflooring: simply fill seams with our Floor Patch Epoxy Gel, sand it smoothly, and apply our Epoxy Undercoat. After a short 4-hour wait, you'll be ready to create an eye-catching look with captivating colors and effects using our Epoxy Midcoat.

How much flooring epoxy or flake do I need?

Calculating the amount of epoxy flooring product you need is a simple process. Start by measuring the length and width of your floor area in feet, and then multiply these numbers to determine the square footage.

Length (in feet) × Width (in feet) = Square Footage of Floor

Metallic Marble Epoxy Floor: For a classic metallic marble effect, use 2-3 colors of Metallic Mica Pigment Powder. For a bolder look, mix Liquid Epoxy Dye with Metallic Mica Pigment, requiring 4-5 ounces of epoxy midcoat per square foot for optimal coverage. To learn more, check out our step-by-step Metallic Marble Epoxy Flooring tutorial instructions.

Epoxy Flake Floor: For full flake coverage, plan on using 1 ounce of Moisture Seal Epoxy Primer and 1 ounce of Polyaspartic Top Coat and 0.25 pounds of flake per square foot. Just multiply the square footage of your space by 0.25 to get the total pounds of flake you’ll need.

Example: A 400 sq. ft. floor will need about 100 lbs of flake.

To learn more, check out our step-by-step Epoxy Flake Flooring tutorial!

Why is it important to use Moisture Seal Epoxy Primer on concrete surfaces?

Whether you are creating a Metallic Marble Epoxy Floor or Epoxy Flake Floor finish over concrete, Stone Coat Moisture Seal Epoxy Primer establishes a deep bonded foundation that acts as a barrier, protecting the following epoxy layer from moisture and delamination, ensuring a durable flawless finish.

Our Moisture Seal Epoxy Primer is ideal for various settings, playing a vital role in sealing concrete, preventing off-gassing bubbles, securing colored flakes and laying the groundwork for breathtaking metallic marble epoxy floors.

With its easy mixing and application, this 2:1 formula provides an ample working time of 50 minutes. It's also low-odor with low-VOCs, available in three striking colors (black, tan and gray), and cures in just 8-16 hours. One of the key benefits of our primer is its ability to create a vapor barrier, effectively preventing moisture damage and reducing the risk of mold and mildew growth.

What should I use to prep and clean for my project?

For best results, DO NOT use acetone to clean or prep your surface.

We recommend using 91% isopropyl alcohol for:

Surface preparation before pouring
Cleaning between poured layers
Creating cell textures and effects (if applicable)

Using acetone may interfere with adhesion and final finish quality. Stick with 91% isopropyl alcohol for a clean, professional result.

What steps should I take to prepare my plywood subfloor for Metallic Marble Epoxy Flooring and Epoxy Flake Flooring?

Metallic Marble Epoxy Floor:

Start by thoroughly cleaning the plywood subfloor to remove dirt and other contaminants.
Repair any cracks, damage, or knots using our Floor Patch Epoxy Gel.
Once the repairs are done, sand the area until it's flat and dust-free.
Mix and pour 2 thin coats of our Epoxy Undercoat.
After waiting for 3-4 hours, you can proceed with mixing and pouring Epoxy Midcoat.

PRO TIP: If your plywood subflooring is bowed or flexes, address this by applying a layer of acrylic bonding primer and accompanying self-leveling cement product. Alternatively, you can fill low areas with 1-2 ounces of Epoxy Midcoat. To learn more, check out our step-by-step Metallic Marble Epoxy Flooring tutorial instructions.

Epoxy Flake Floor:

Start by thoroughly cleaning the plywood subfloor to remove dirt and other contaminants.
Repair any cracks, damage, or knots using our Floor Patch Epoxy Gel.
Once the repairs are done, sand the area until it's flat and dust-free.
Mix and pour 2 thin coats of our Epoxy Undercoat.
After the Epoxy Undercoat cures for 3-4 hours, mix and apply Moisture Seal Epoxy Primer, then evenly distribute Decorative Floor Flake. After 15-24 hours of cure time, scrape excess flakes and apply Polyaspartic Top Coat as a durable finish.

PRO TIP: If your plywood subflooring is bowed or flexes, address this by applying a layer of acrylic bonding primer and accompanying self-leveling cement product. Alternatively, you can fill low areas with 1-2 ounces of Epoxy Midcoat. To learn more, check out our step-by-step Epoxy Flake Flooring tutorial instructions.

What colors can I make my Metallic Marble Epoxy Floors?

Stone Coat Flooring Epoxy Midcoat is designed to work seamlessly with Metallic Mica Pigment Powder and Liquid Epoxy Dye, giving you the freedom to create your dream floor. With the ability to incorporate a spectrum of solids, metallics, glitters, and rich epoxy pastes–the possibilities are endless! We encourage you to unleash your creativity and explore different combinations of our colorants to achieve one-of-a-kind patterns and designs.

Is Stone Coat flooring epoxy durable and scratch resistant?

Our flooring epoxy is designed to resist scratches, stains, and wear, making it perfect for high-traffic areas. With proper maintenance, Stone Coat epoxy floors can retain their glossy appearance for years.

Protect and enhance the durability of your Metallic Marble Epoxy Flooring and Epoxy Flake Flooring while also elevating visual appeal with one of our top coat products:

Stone Coat Flooring Ultimate Top Coat: Available in matte or glossy urethane (marble only)

Stone Coat Flooring Polyaspartic Top Coat: Available in UV resistant high-gloss (marble and flake).

Is creating a Stone Coat epoxy floor expensive?

Stone Coat Flooring offers an affordable solution compared to other flooring options. The cost ultimately depends on the size of your project and the specific products you choose. However, considering its durability and the value it adds to your space, it's an investment that pays off in the long run.

When compared to the cost of professional installation, it’s a clear choice–especially with the addition of FREE full-length step-by-step tutorials available on our Stone Coat Countertops YouTube channel.

Professional Epoxy Flake Flooring = $5-7 a square foot

vs.

DIY Stone Coat Epoxy Flake Flooring = $1.99-2.50 a square foot

Professional Epoxy Marble Flooring = $15-19 a square foot

vs.

DIY Stone Coat Epoxy Marble Flooring = $3-5 a square foot

When installing epoxy flooring outdoors, can exposure to sunlight and temperature extremes affect the outcome?

When it comes to outdoor installation of Stone Coat epoxy flooring, climate considerations play a crucial role. Extremely cold temperatures can impact the curing process and final finish. For the best outcome, we recommend installing epoxy Epoxy Flake Flooring in dry weather conditions and moderate temperatures ranging from 60 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. To combat the effects of direct sunlight, our specially designed Stone Coat Polyaspartic Top Coat provides excellent UV resistance.

Metallic Marble Epoxy Flooring should not be installed outdoors in direct sunlight. If you do opt to install in a covered area with no sun exposure, we recommend only using earth tones or dark colors to mitigate early ambering and degradation.

Is Stone Coat flooring epoxy truly chemical and stain resistant?

Our top-of-the-line epoxy is specifically designed to handle spills from oils, chemicals, and other substances with ease. Perfect for garages, workshops, and commercial spaces, it's a durable and reliable choice. With regular cleaning, you can effortlessly maintain its impeccable appearance.

How long do I have to work with flooring epoxy?

Metallic Marble Epoxy Flooring: Stone Coat Flooring Epoxy Midcoat offers an exceptional working time, ranging from 85 to 120 minutes. This duration may vary based on the temperature and humidity of your workspace. With the longest working time available in the epoxy flooring industry, you'll have ample opportunity to mix, pour, and spread the epoxy before it begins to set.

Epoxy Flake Flooring: You'll have a comfortable 70 minutes (approximate) to apply Stone Coat Flooring Moisture Seal Epoxy Primer and spread your selected Decorative Floor Flake. Keep in mind, working time can vary with temperature and humidity. For larger flooring projects, consider applying the Moisture Seal Epoxy Primer and Decorative Floor Flake in sections or batches, creating seamless transitions in between.

Does Stone Coat flooring epoxy have a strong odor?

Enjoy a healthier installation with our low-odor, low-VOC flooring epoxy products. No respirator required during application, making it more comfortable for you to work.

We do however highly recommend wearing vinyl nitrile gloves and eye protection during the application process, and adding a respirator mask when sanding our products.

When can I park my car on my new epoxy flooring?

For optimal results, it is recommended to wait for a minimum of 24-36 hours after applying Stone Coat flooring products before walking on it and minimum 7 days before parking a vehicle on the surface. It is also important to avoid turning the vehicle's wheel without any movement during the initial 30 days. This waiting period ensures the complete curing of all coats of epoxy and top coats, allowing the floor to withstand weight and movement without sustaining any damage.

Which flooring epoxy top coat should I choose?

When choosing the right top coat for your project, it's important to consider the type of flooring you’re installing and its specific requirements.

For Flake Floors: Our Polyaspartic Top Coat is the perfect final layer. Ultimate Top Coat is not compatible with flake flooring. If you need added slip resistance in high traffic areas, our optional Non-skid Floor Additive is a great choice.

For Metallic Marble Floors: We offer a variety of top coat options. You can opt for Stone Coat Flooring Ultimate Top Coat available in matte or glossy urethane or our Polyaspartic Top Coat available in UV resistant high-gloss.

How do I care for and maintain my new Stone Coat epoxy floor?

Keeping your epoxy floor in top shape is a breeze. Simply clean it regularly with mild soap and water to maintain its pristine appearance. Remember to avoid abrasive cleaners or pads. Promptly clean up any spills to prevent staining. With proper care and attention, your epoxy floor will retain its luster for years to come.

Can I pour epoxy over fiberglass or old tile?

For optimal results, it is highly recommended to demo your existing tile or worn-out fiberglass tub/shower surround, and install new cement board before installing epoxy shower panels. When applying epoxy on a vertical surface, there is a possibility of the design running and creating an unsightly appearance. It is advisable to pour the shower panels horizontally and install them vertically after they have fully cured. Additionally, it is important to ensure proper waterproofing of the shower area. Follow the same preparatory steps used for a standard tile shower installation.

What are the steps to make an epoxy shower wall panel?

Prepare the Foam Panels: Cut foam panels to size, seam together as needed, and apply Fiberglass Mesh with Stone Coat Quick Coat.
Mix the Epoxy: Follow the product instructions for mixing Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy resin (Part A) and hardener (Part B).
Color and Pour: Add desired colorants, then pour the epoxy over each panel, using gloved hands or ¼ Inch Microfiber Roller to spread evenly.
Fully Cure: Allow the epoxy to cure per the product instructions before final installation.
Apply Top Coat: Pour a clear coat of Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy, Epoxy Art Coat or roll on optional Ultimate Top Coat as a final step.
Install the Completed Panels: Apply a small amount of 100% silicone adhesive to the back of the fully cured epoxy panels and press them firmly onto the shower walls. Use siliconized latex caulking at the panel-wall junctions and 100% silicone at the 90-degree seams.

What supplies and products do I need for an epoxy shower project?

Foam Panels: High-density, closed-cell foam panels or a prepared surface if applying over existing tile or fiberglass
Epoxy: Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy or Epoxy Art Coat
Added Reinforcement: Fiberglass Mesh and Stone Coat Quick Coat (for strengthening and seaming foam panels)
Decorative Colorants: Metallic Mica Pigment Powder, Glitter Additives, and Liquid Epoxy Dye
Tools: Gloved hands, ⅛ Inch Square Notch Trowel, ¼ Inch Microfiber Roller, 2” Chop Brush, plastic measuring/mixing buckets, and drill bit mixing paddle
Protective Gear: Vinyl nitrile gloves and protective eyewear

What should I use to prep and clean for my project?

For best results, DO NOT use acetone to clean or prep your surface.

We recommend using 91% isopropyl alcohol for:

Surface preparation before pouring
Cleaning between poured layers
Creating cell textures and effects

Using acetone may interfere with adhesion and final finish quality. Stick with 91% isopropyl alcohol for a clean, professional result.

How much epoxy do I need for an epoxy shower project?

Need more guidance on which products to select and how much to order? Use our Project Builder.(COMING SOON)

Length (in inches) × Width (in inches) ÷ 144 = Square Footage of Shower Wall.

The amount of epoxy needed will depend on the size of your shower and the number of coats to be applied.

4 ounces of Quick Coat per square foot to adhere the Fiberglass Mesh
3-6 ounces of Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy or Epoxy Art Coat for the color coat
3 ounces of Countertop Epoxy or Epoxy Art Coat for a high-gloss top coat or apply Ultimate Top Coat as an optional finish

How much epoxy can I mix at once for my shower panels?

For optimal results and safety, we recommend mixing only 1 gallon of our countertop epoxy products at a time (which is what we use to create shower panels). This translates to a ½ gallon mix of Part A (resin) and ½ gallon of Part B (hardener). Mixing larger quantities can lead to an exothermic reaction, causing:

Excessive Heat: This can damage the epoxy and surrounding surfaces.
Rapid Curing: The epoxy will harden too quickly, limiting your working time.
Toxic VOC Release: These fumes can pose health risks.

What colors can I make my epoxy shower panels?

Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy and Epoxy Art Coat are designed to work seamlessly with Metallic Mica Pigment Powder, Glitter Additives, and Liquid Epoxy Dye, giving you the freedom to create your dream shower surround. With the ability to incorporate a spectrum of solids, metallics, glitters, and rich epoxy pastes–the possibilities are endless! We encourage you to unleash your creativity and explore different combinations of our colorants to achieve one-of-a-kind patterns and designs.

PRO TIP: All of our countertop kit styles can be used to create shower panel designs!

Where can I buy foam panels?

There is an extensive range of options available at home improvement stores or online. Select high-density, water-resistant foam panels. Our top recommendation is Formular pink foam panels by Owens Corning, available in various thicknesses from ½’’ to 1’’.

Are foam panels water resistant?

For creating epoxy shower walls, use high-density, closed-cell foam panels. They are water-resistant and provide a sturdy base for our epoxy. Our top recommendation is Formular pink foam panels by Owens Corning, available in various thicknesses from ½’’ to 1’’.

How do I install finished epoxy panels to my shower wall?

Before you install epoxy shower wall panels, it's crucial to ensure the wall surface is clean and dry. Make sure your shower is properly prepared and waterproofed similar to standard shower tile installation.
Apply a generous amount of 100% silicone to the back of the fully cured epoxy coated panel and press it firmly against the wall.
Use siliconized latex caulking where the panel meets the wall and use 100% silicone at the 90-degree seams.

Can I add grab bars or glass shower doors to an epoxy shower wall?

Yes! You can attach grab bars or a glass shower door to epoxy shower walls. However, it's important to securely anchor these fixtures. To do so, use appropriate mounting hardware and reinforce the area behind the panel where the fixtures will be attached. We recommend reinforcing the foam shower panel by installing exterior-grade water-resistant MDF or marine grade plywood in areas where grab bars and shower doors or a glass enclosure will be installed.

Can I seam my foam panels to create a larger epoxy shower wall?

Absolutely! It is possible to join foam panels before pouring epoxy. We recommend using masking tape on the back side of the foam panel to secure the panels in the desired order and position. Then, fill the seams with Stone Coat Quick Coat, which helps keep the panels together during the application of Fiberglass Mesh for added strength and longevity. It is important to ensure that the seams are smooth and even to achieve a seamless finish once the epoxy is applied.

Can I use Stone Coat epoxy to coat my old shower pan?

Yes! Stone Coat Moisture Seal Epoxy Primer can be used to coat an old shower pan, offering a way to refresh it without complete replacement. Ensure the pan is thoroughly cleaned, repaired if necessary, and sanded for better adhesion. Our epoxy will provide a waterproof, durable surface that can revive the look of your shower pan. We like to spread ground up colored quartz sand or apply flake flooring on the shower pan for a durable non-slip surface.

Are epoxy shower wall panels strong and durable?

Stone Coat epoxy shower wall panels are exceptionally durable and long-lasting. They are highly resistant to water, mold, and mildew, ensuring easy maintenance and a lasting glossy finish. By applying Stone Coat Ultimate Top Coat as the final layer, the panels effectively withstand challenges posed by well water containing minerals and sediment. With the added strength of Fiberglass Mesh during installation, these shower panels exhibit excellent impact resistance in wet shower environments.

How long will my epoxy shower last?

An epoxy shower can last for years with proper care and maintenance. The durability of Stone Coat epoxy resin, combined with its resistance to water, mold, and mildew, makes it an excellent choice for shower surrounds. Its longevity also depends on the quality of the application and adherence to recommended maintenance practices.

How do I care for and maintain my new epoxy shower?

Clean regularly with mild soap and water to prevent soap scum buildup.
Avoid abrasive cleaners and scrubbers that can scratch the surface.
For stubborn stains, use a soft cloth and our Epoxy Polishing & Cleaning Kit.
Ensure proper ventilation in the bathroom to reduce moisture buildup.

Which Woodshop Epoxy product should I use?

Woodshop Epoxy Penetrate is a solvent-free, ultra-low viscosity epoxy system designed to deeply stabilize soft, damaged, or porous wood. Ideal for pre-sealing edges and surfaces before casting, laminating, or top coating, it enhances adhesion, minimizes bubble release, and strengthens the substrate.

Woodshop Epoxy Classic Deep is a premium, food-safe deep pour epoxy ideal for casting, river tables, and live-edge woodworking projects, with pour depths up to 2 inches in layered pours.

Woodshop Epoxy Ultra Deep is a crystal-clear casting epoxy formulated for large volume pours up to 3 inches thick in a single layer, ideal for river tables, encapsulations, and deep molds.

Woodshop Epoxy Flood Coat is a crystal-clear, UV-resistant epoxy topcoat designed to protect and enhance woodworking, casting, and mold-based projects. Specifically formulated for final flood coats, it delivers a durable, high-gloss finish with excellent resistance to scratching, heat, and yellowing.

Classic Deep is ideal for wood projects that require a deeper pour (up to 2” layered), such as standard depth river tables, inlays, charcuterie boards, filling voids in a slab, or small wood turning blanks. Ultra Deep excels in extra-thick river tables (up to 3” in a single pour), deeper-pour casts, large wood turning blanks, or other large volume pours. Casting Epoxy is best used for projects that require slow cure and low heat, such as small silicone mold projects (coasters, trays, jewelry, keychains, etc).

Do I need to use all four woodshop epoxy products?

No, but using the full system provides the best performance and longest-lasting results. Many projects start with Penetrate, move to Classic or Ultra Deep, and finish with Flood Coat.

How do I calculate the amount of epoxy required to create a river table?

Length (in inches) × Width (in inches) × Height (in inches) ÷ 231 = Volume (in gallons)

Determining the right product approach for a project depends on its size. To accurately calculate the required amount of Stone Coat Classic Deep or Ultra Deep for your project, we highly recommend using our convenient Epoxy Calculator. Simply provide the average Length, Width, and Height of the area to be filled with casting epoxy and let the calculator do the math!

For pours up to 2" deep, using a layered pour technique, use Stone Coat Woodshop Epoxy Classic Deep. For deeper pours, upgrade to Stone Coat Woodshop Epoxy Ultra Deep with up to 3” in a single pour.

What type of epoxy should I choose to fill knots and cracks?

Easily fill knots and cracks with our efficient epoxy solutions. Stone Coat Flood
Coat is ideal for smaller knots and cracks, while our Classic Deep can fill larger voids and fissures. Our epoxy products are specially formulated to provide deep penetration and secure curing for stable and dependable fills.

How do I correctly mix Stone Coat Deep Pour?

When preparing Stone Coat Classic or Deep Pour epoxies, it's crucial to follow the recommended 2:1 ratio of 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener. If possible, measuring ratios by weight yields better results than by liquid volume.

Combine both components in a clean mixing container and stir thoroughly for approximately 3-5 minutes, ensuring even distribution by scraping the sides and bottom.

To prevent the formation of air bubbles, mix slowly and deliberately.

When pouring the mixed Classic Deep or Ultra Deep into your mold or casting form, take the necessary steps to eliminate any air bubbles. You can use a heat source like a propane torch or heat gun to carefully remove air every ¼ inch of poured depth. This process effectively eliminates any air bubbles that may have formed during the resin mixing stage. A pressure pot may also be used for bubble removal.

What can I use to color Stone Coat Classic Deep or Ultra Deep?

To achieve vibrant colors in your casting resin, you can use Metallic Mica Pigment Powder, Glitter Additives, Colour Passion Pigment Paste, PolyColor Liquid Epoxy Dye, and other epoxy resin-compatible options. It's crucial to choose colorants compatible with epoxy to ensure even color dispersion and avoid any interference with the resin's curing process.

How much Stone Coat Woodshop Epoxy Classic Deep or Ultra Deep do I need to finish my woodworking project?

Length (in inches) × Width (in inches) ÷ 144 = Square Footage of Project

To determine the required amount of Classic Deep or Ultra Deep, consider the table size and desired coat thickness. We highly recommend using our convenient Epoxy Calculator. Simply provide the average Length, Width, and Height of the area to be filled with casting epoxy and let the calculator do the math!

For a Seal Coat: Brush on a thin layer of Woodshop Epoxy Penetrate and allow to absorb evenly. For deeper penetration, thin with up to 50% acetone or denatured alcohol. Stir thoroughly before application. Apply multiple coats for a stronger finish.

For a Flood Coat: With a thickness of around 1/8 of an inch, estimate 3-4 ounces of Flood Coat per square foot. For maximum protection and the smoothest surface, apply a second layer of Flood Coat at the gel stage when the surface is still slightly tacky to the touch. No sanding will be necessary before recoating. If the surface is fully cured, lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper before pouring to create a new mechanical bond.

For optimal results, apply a seal coat of Woodshop Penetrating Epoxy to the surface for maximum adhesion to Woodshop Epoxy Flood Coat. This approach ensures excellent coverage, protection, and a smooth final coat of epoxy, resembling glass-like perfection.

What is a “seal coat” of epoxy and why do I need one?

A seal coat is a thin base layer of epoxy that effectively seals pores and prevents the formation of air bubbles when applying a thicker flood coat. This process is crucial for working with porous materials or embedding objects into the epoxy. A thin layer Woodshop Epoxy Penetrate is recommended to seal and stabilize the surface.

What is a “flood coat” of epoxy?

A flood coat is a thicker layer of epoxy that is poured and self-levels to create a smooth, clear finish. It enhances and showcases the natural beauty of wood and other materials. Whether applied over seal coats or directly to the material surface, it adds a protective and visually appealing coating. For a pour thickness of around 1/8 of an inch, estimate 3-4 ounces of Woodshop Epoxy Flood Coat per square foot.

How dry should the wood be before applying epoxy?

Ideally, the moisture content should be 12% or below to prevent adhesion issues, warping, cracking, or delamination of the epoxy layer. A moisture meter can confirm the wood is properly acclimated and ready for epoxy before you begin pouring.

How do I level a warped or twisted wood slab?

Achieving a level surface on a warped wood slab can be a challenge. However, with the right techniques like planing, sanding, or using a router sled, you can eliminate excess material and make a slab flat. Our exclusive Router Slab Jig is perfect for DIY woodworking enthusiasts. It allows you to effortlessly level and smooth even the most severely twisted and cupped slabs. For an overview of the jig, check out our Slab Jig Information Video. Additional educational content can be found on our YouTube Channel.

What techniques should I use to keep my wood slab from warping?

To prevent warping, it's crucial to ensure that the wood is properly dried and acclimated to your environment before use. Additionally, sealing the top, bottom, and all sides of the wood with Woodshop Epoxy Penetrate will help minimize moisture exchange. Using a stable base that provides even support to the wood is also beneficial in preventing warping during storage.

How do I build a woodworking epoxy casting form?

To create a casting form for your project, you can use a melamine board or a similar material, as long as it is a smooth surface substrate. Cut the pieces carefully to make a box slightly larger than needed. Attach the sides with pocket holes. For easy release when the epoxy cures, wrap the melamine with Tyvek tape or a similar product. Alternatively, you can use a silicone mold release spray on the melamine before pouring the epoxy, eliminating the need for tape. Make sure to seal all seams on the external sides of the melamine form with latex caulk to prevent leaks. For a real-world example, watch the form being built in this video.

When can I remove my woodworking project from its epoxy casting form?

To ensure the successful removal of a project from the casting form, factors such as epoxy volume, curing time, and project thickness should be considered. Generally, it is recommended to refer to the specific epoxy instructions, as curing times may vary. In most cases, you can remove a project from the mold within 36-72 hours for optimal results.

When can I use my new epoxy river table?

It is crucial to allow the epoxy to fully cure before using the project. Typically, this process takes around 3-7 days after the final pour, depending on the specific epoxy formula and project thickness. Allowing the epoxy to fully cure ensures maximum hardness and durability.

Woodshop Epoxy Flood Coat is a crystal clear, UV-resistant epoxy topcoat designed to protect and enhance woodworking, casting, and mold-based projects. Specifically formulated for final flood coats, it delivers a durable, high gloss finish with excellent resistance to scratching, heat, and yellowing.

For an additional layer of protection, apply Stone Coat Ultimate Top Coat, applied as the final layer. This product not only enhances the durability of your projects but also allows you to use them sooner, skipping the typical 7-day epoxy cure time. *NOTE: UTC is a textured finish, available in either Matte or Gloss. For a detailed application demonstration, check out our Ultimate Top Coat Product Information Video.

Will my epoxy woodworking project be strong and durable?

Epoxy woodworking projects are highly durable and offer exceptional resistance to water, impact, and daily wear. The application of epoxy creates a strong and protective surface, ensuring longevity and transforming novice woodworkers into seasoned artisans.

What is the Stone Coat Finishes Cabinet & Furniture Paint System?

This specialized cabinet & furniture 3-step paint system includes a Cabinet & Furniture Primer for excellent adhesion, a durable Cabinet & Furniture Paint for a stunning color application, and an optional gloss Cabinet & Furniture Top Coat for long-lasting protection. These self-leveling products are perfect for DIYers. Say goodbye to roller and brush marks, and hello to flawlessly transformed cabinets and furniture pieces that look like they came straight out of a magazine.

Is the Stone Coat Finishes Cabinet & Furniture Paint System Acrylic or Enamel?

Our system is specifically formulated with low-VOCs and is a water-based acrylic formula. Our products dry quickly, make for easy cleanup with warm soapy water, ensuring timely completion of your projects.

Can I use the Stone Coat Finishes Cabinet & Furniture Paint System on my Thermofoil laminate cabinets?

Yes! Our system is fully compatible with Thermofoil laminate cabinets. For best results, we suggest thoroughly cleaning and lightly sanding the surfaces before applying the primer. This will ensure excellent adhesion. Then, follow the same steps as you would for painted cabinets. Remember to prep with at least two thin coats of our specially formulated Cabinet & Furniture Primer, designed to effectively bond to smooth surfaces.

Do I need to sand my cabinets or furniture pieces before painting?

To achieve the best adhesion with our Stone Coat Finishes Cabinet & Furniture Primer and Cabinet & Furniture Paint, it is recommended to lightly sand the surface of your existing cabinets and furniture pieces. This creates a smoother finish, and good adhesion when using a paint sprayer, ¼ Inch Microfiber Roller, or 2” Chop Brush. When painting old cabinets and furniture, a scuff with a maroon or green Scotch-Brite pad is usually enough to reduce the glossy sheen.

How long does it take Stone Coat Finishes Cabinet & Furniture Paint to dry ?

Our Cabinet & Furniture Paint typically dries in short 1-3 hours. For maximum durability and to prevent any wet spots, it is advisable to wait a minimum of 1-2 hours before adding more coats or the final optional Stone Coat Finishes Cabinet & Furniture Primer. For a flawless finish that lasts, give your painted cabinets or furniture pieces 48-72 hours to fully cure before reinstalling doors, drawers, and hardware.

Is the Stone Coat Finishes Cabinet & Furniture Paint System water-resistant?

Our Cabinet & Furniture Paint and Cabinet & Furniture Top Coat are specifically designed for use on cabinets and furniture pieces that reside in kitchens and bathrooms. These durable and water-resistant paints and optional top coat offer maximum durability to withstand the challenges of kitchen and bathroom environments.

How do I achieve a smooth finish without brush marks?

For application, we recommend using a ¼ Inch Microfiber Roller, or 2” Chop Brush. These self-leveling products effectively conceal roller and brush marks, resulting in a smooth finish. Additionally, the Stone Coat Finishes Cabinet & Furniture Paint System is compatible with your chosen paint sprayer, with no need to thin any product before spraying for a truly high-end long lasting professional finish without the professional price tag.

Can the Cabinet & Furniture Top Coat be used on painted surfaces not treated with Stone Coat Finishes Cabinet & Furniture Paint?

Our versatile Cabinet & Furniture Top Coat is specifically formulated to work seamlessly with Stone Coat Finishes Cabinet & Furniture Paint, other leading paint brands, and on untreated wood surfaces. It provides a clear and durable protective finish over painted surfaces, including trim and baseboards.

How do I clean and prep my cabinets and furniture for primer and paint?

For effective surface cleaning, start by using a degreaser to eliminate grease and oils. We like to use a trisodium phosphate cleaner. Rinse surfaces with warm water, followed by gentle sanding. Pay close attention to cabinet doors, drawers, face frames, and areas near the cooktop, oven, and microwaves, as they tend to accumulate more grease and grime. Additional cleaning may be necessary in these areas for better adhesion and results. Make sure surfaces are completely dry before sanding and applying our Cabinet & Furniture Primer.

Where can I use the Stone Coat Finishes Cabinet & Furniture Paint System besides cabinets and furniture?

Our Stone Coat Finishes Cabinet & Furniture Paint System is specifically designed for upgrading kitchen and bathroom cabinets, furniture, built-in shelving, wood trim, crown molding, and various home projects. It is also a great fit for commercial spaces and DIY crafts. With its versatility, this solution provides ample options for interior painting projects. Please note that our Cabinet & Furniture Primer,Cabinet & Furniture Paint, and Cabinet & Furniture Top Coat are intended for indoor use only.

Can I tint Stone Coat Cabinet & Furniture Paint?

No. Our system was formulated for extreme surface bond and as you incorporate additional pigments adhesion is reduced.

How do I repair, clean, and maintain my painted cabinets and furniture?

Minor scratches can be repaired on the spot, but for damaged top coats, you'll need to lightly sand the area, repaint the spot with matching Cabinet & Furniture Paint, and then reapply the Cabinet & Furniture Top Coat for complete protection. Avoid harsh scrubbing agents and wait at least 2 weeks after painting for the surface to fully cure. For everyday cleaning, stick to normal cleaners or soapy water to maintain the beauty of your cabinets and furniture.

Does epoxy artwork made on foam panels need fiberglass mesh reinforcement?

No, we use Fiberglass Mesh reinforcement for shower and bathtub surround walls. This way if an impact happens in the shower or tub the panel will last for years to come. In most cases epoxy art wall panels made out of foam will not have any impacts from a wet shower environment and wouldn't require the additional reinforcement the Fiberglass Mesh provides.

Which type of epoxy should I use for Tumblers?

We recommend using Stone Coat Epoxy Art Coat for tumblers. Art Coat provides the industry's best UV resistance. This ensures the epoxy tumblers created will stay color fast for years to come.

Are alcohol inks compatible with Stone Coat Epoxy Art Coat?

Yes, however most alcohol inks fade with UV exposure. Be sure to test any alcohol ink for color fastness before using it on an epoxy art piece. You can add a few drops of Liquid Epoxy Dye into 1-2 ounces of 91% alcohol to create your own alcohol ink. These inks will not fade with UV exposure.

What makes Stone Coat Art Coat Epoxy unique for resin artists?

Art Coat Epoxy offers a longer working time, UV inhibitors to reduce yellowing, and a durable finish, making it ideal for various artistic applications. Ocean beach projects using Stone Coat products stand out among the rest, the white cells and laces perfectly which is why Epoxy Art Coat is the go-to resin for epoxy artwork.

What should I use to prep and clean for my project?

For best results, DO NOT use acetone to clean or prep your surface.

We recommend using 91% isopropyl alcohol for:

Surface preparation before pouring
Cleaning between poured layers
Creating cell textures and effects

Using acetone may interfere with adhesion and final finish quality. Stick with 91% isopropyl alcohol for a clean, professional result.

How do you mix Art Coat Epoxy for best results?

For optimal results, mix equal volumes of parts A and B, using a paddle mixer for 2 minutes. For canvas paintings or artwork, use 3 ounces per square foot or as little as 1 ounce per square foot.

Can Art Coat Epoxy be used for countertops and shower walls?

Yes. It's formulated to withstand the demands of kitchens and bathrooms, offering heat resistance up to 450°F creating the longest lasting white and light colored epoxy countertop and artwork projects.

What are the curing and pot life details for Art Coat Epoxy?

Stone Coat Art Coat Epoxy has a pot life of 45 minutes and a cure time of 20-24 hours, with an open working time of over 65 minutes allowing tons of time to get your epoxy art work to look just the way you want. Art Coat Epoxy is low-odor and low-VOC meaning no nasty smells.

How UV-resistant is Art Coat Epoxy?

Stone Coat Art Coat Epoxy is meticulously crafted with advanced UV protection measures to effectively shield artwork from discoloration and degradation, ensuring long-lasting vibrancy and durability. This feature provides unparalleled resistance against environmental factors, making it an ideal choice for preserving your valuable artwork for years to come.

When is Stone Coat Epoxy Quick Coat the right choice for my artwork project?

Stone Coat Epoxy Quick Coat is a fast-curing, versatile epoxy resin that's perfect for a variety of woodworking and artistic applications. Here are some of the ideal situations for using Quick Coat:

Fast Project Completion: With a drying time of just 3-4 hours, Quick Coat allows you to move on to the next step in your project quickly and efficiently. This is ideal for situations where you need to complete a project in a short timeframe.

Coating 3D Objects: Quick Coat is a great choice for coating and finishing 3D objects like sculptures or decorative pieces.

Filling Seams, Knots, and Cracks: The resin effectively fills in small imperfections like seams, knots, and cracks in wood surfaces, creating a smooth and even base for further work.

Applying a Seal Coat: Quick Coat can be used as a fast-drying seal coat on the underside of your woodworking projects to help protect them from moisture damage.

Creating Artistic Geodes: Artists appreciate the fast curing time Quick Coat offers for crafting stunning geode artwork.

PRO TIP: Woodworking projects should have a moisture level below 10-12% before applying Quick Coat for best results.

Is Stone Coat Craft Coat suitable for creating epoxy artwork?

Stone Coat Craft Coat is specifically designed for practicing and honing your epoxy finishing skills with. By excluding UV inhibitors, we've made it as cost-effective as possible. However, please note that Craft Coat isn't recommended for projects requiring long-term UV resistance. It acts and flows just like Epoxy Art Coat, allowing you to perfect your epoxy marble finishes before moving on to the pricier Epoxy Art Coat and Countertop Epoxy, designed for lasting use in your own or your clients' homes.

What is the best way to contact Stone Coat Countertops customer service?

Email us: We recommend contacting our customer service team via email at support@stonecoatcountertops.com for order related and detailed project inquiries. You can expect a response within 24-48 business hours during weekday business hours (Monday - Friday 8am to 7PM EST).
Call us: For the most immediate response, you can also call us at +1 (541) 450-1976 during weekday business hours (Monday - Friday 8am to 7PM EST).

What are your business hours?

The Stone Coat Countertops customer service team is available and eager to serve you during our standard business hours Monday - Friday 8am to 7PM EST*.

*Please note: Order processing times do not include weekends or holidays.

How long will it take to receive my order?

Typically, small parcel orders being shipped via FedEx Ground take 2 days to prepare prior to shipping. For larger orders exceeding 150 LBS or 7 boxes, and those containing specific hazardous materials take 2 weeks to prepare prior to shipping freight.

Need real-time answers about the timing of your delivery? Please contact customer service for the most current information.

What shipping methods do you use?

Small Parcels: Most orders under 150 lbs and 7 boxes will ship to you via FedEx.

Large Orders & Hazardous Materials: For bigger shipments (over 150 lbs or 7 boxes) and those containing specific hazardous materials, our team selects the most cost-effective freight option on the day of your order. This ensures you get the best deal without compromising speed.

Do you accept international orders?

If you are located outside of the United States, you can order our products directly from our international retail partners listed below.

Australia: Color Obsession

Canada: New Classic Resin

Mexico: Crepox

New Zealand: Barnes New Zealand

United Kingdom: Stone Coat Countertops Europe

If you are unable to order products through one of these retailers, please contact our customer service team to explore other options.

What’s your return/refund policy?

We accept returns on unopened, unused items within 30 days of purchase.

To get started, simply reach out to our Customer Service team to request a return authorization. Once approved, please send the product back within 15 days of receiving your authorization.

Return shipping costs are the responsibility of the customer. If you received an incorrect or defective item, we’ll gladly credit the return freight.

Please note that unauthorized returns will be subject to a 10% restocking fee, which will be deducted from your refund. Additional restocking fees may apply in certain cases.

Once your return is received and processed, your refund will be issued back to your original payment method.

If you have any questions along the way, our team is always happy to help. Please click here or email us at support@stonecoatcountertops.com with your order information to begin the return process.

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APEX

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